Our driver told us that the ride from Pushkar to Jaipur will be a piece of cake. A six lane highway is available, and with the exception of the first 25 or so kilometers, which is a two lane road. Later, when we found ourselves driving on the margins, he explained that this is a major route between Delhi and Mumbai, and that this is the only one which doesn't require toll. Can you guess what happens when a small minivan drives one way, and a big truck driving on the same lane going in the opposite direction? You guessed right. You get to ride the margins... But we did get to the six lane highway eventually, and the ride was reasonable. Not exactly European style, but certainly reasonable. Not too many cows, goats apparently like highways better. Bicycle rickshaws or pedestrians were not present, but entire families riding motorbikes were occasionally seen. The fence along the highway which was built to prevent livestock from eating the highway, was sawn off and sold for iron (raw material), and there is absolutely no speed enforcement.
Entering Jaipur, one gets the feeling of an event. Like two hugely popular rock bands are in town for performances, that incidentally occur at the exact same time. Streams of traffic seem to be rushing in both directions, with a sense of purpose. Like there's something at the end of the street. The traffic has some order in it, although it isn't readily visible. Large cars, buses, and trucks use the official lanes. Preceding them, following them, and on the sides are tuk-tuks, a small motorcycle equipped with a cabin, which will can seat around three – one next to the driver, two in the back (actually, we've seen tuk-tuks with twenty passengers). Then, in the spaces in between the large vehicles and the tuk-tuks are bicycles, small two seater motorcycles mounted by three sometimes four people, pedestrians, and occasional dog. There are islands in the traffic. Island not to be invaded by vehicles. They are reserved. To cows. It's a very interesting sight, unlike anything I've seen before. There's something appealing about it, but I'm not sure yet what it is.
We were set to visit a mosque and a Jain religion temple at the outskirts of Jaipur. When we arrived at the vicinity of the mosque, we were "greeted" with an offer to escort us through. When I declined, the person turned from inhospitable to hostile in a minute, and then he turned to his associates and started pointing. In a split second decision which I don't regret, I instructed my family back to the car. Ten seconds later we were gone. No mosque, church or temple are worth the feeling of discomfort and insecurity. With one look, this guy, whose name I shall never know, succeeded in intimidating every single bone in my body. So thanks, but no thanks. When I travel, I want to be welcome. At least not intimidated. This behavior is not acceptable.
In almost a bizarre coincidence, the visit to the Jain religion temple was so welcoming, the people so hospitable and friendly that we completely forgot our small incident at the mosque. The temple, which claims five hundred kilos of pure gold, is probably the most elaborate, complex, glorious, and expensive house of worship I've ever seen. Spectacular is the word.
You have to climb up to capture this site. Looking from glass windows, you see a large, basketball court sized space, filled with mythological figures, floating boats, Gods, humans and other animals. It actually and literally took my breath away.
We went to see the Maharaja's palace and the City Gate. The founding Maharaja was an engineer, an innovator, and astronomer. Like yours truly he was very sensitive to time. Almost three hundred years ago, he built an observatory, which could tell time at amazing precision, seasons and zodiac signs. Entering this garden you right away get the feeling that you've entered a modern art gallery, with some strange art on display. Right away, you're proven wrong. It's really amazing.
Moving on to the Maharaja's palace, we learn that the current Maharaja actually lives in part of the palace, and that he was actually there. A small flag on top of a large one signified his presence. His father, the old Maharaja was an army general who was an elected official once retired. The current Maharaja is over seventy, and gets to hold the title only. He's wealthy, and is mostly respected for old glory and tradition and his own personal charm.
Then, as usual, we hit the bazaar. Dorit bought spices to make a home made Chicken Tikka Masala. After we have it, I will dedicate a post to it... We also bought a few (delicious) bananas and oranges and went back to the hotel.
Enlightenment of the day: We always carry on about “old times” and how great it was “back then”. We're visiting “back then”. Nostalgia is good. Life today is way better!