灿烂的烟火给雪乡披上了绮丽的外衣,呈现出游戏场景般的神秘气息。
雪乡的雪黏度大,每下一场,便黏在房檐上,最后抹成一大块“奶油”。还有的雪花随风飘浮,成为木桩上的蘑菇,或是各种小动物。
这不是大李子!梨在寒冷的天气下冻成近乎于黑色的深色。吃的时候必须用冷水缓开,冻梨绝对是东北特产。
一片鹅毛般柔软的雪花,在半空中不断地盘旋、下降,如果它运气好,风会把它带到雪乡,在这里,它可以停留整整7个月而不融化。当北方的大部分地区只降温不降雪时,雪乡早已经披上了银白色的盛装。只有身处其中,你才能真切地感受到:这里是中国下雪最多的地方。
谁创造了“雪国”?
2007年1月,哈尔滨的街头,不久前刚下的小雪早就化得一干二净。这让我对雪乡之行充满了怀疑:传说中的雪乡会有雪吗?
汽车颠簸在丛林深处,脚下这片土地叫大海林,位于张广才岭南坡,是长白山脉的一部分。如果有一张地形图,就可以清楚地看到,东北—西南走向的张广才岭一直延伸到吉林省境内。“大海林”我在心里默念这个名字,两旁的白桦和红松从车窗边飞快地掠过,雪乡就藏在这片像海一样广阔的林子深处。
山里的温度明显比城市低,同样是几天前的雪,路边却还有很多没融化。白色的残雪也很让人激动,司机师傅却告诉我们,这不算什么,进了雪乡就是另外一片天地了!果然,当汽车拐过一个弯道后,眼前的白色忽然一下子多了起来,似乎在大声说:欢迎来到“雪的国度”!
最先看到的就是家家户户房顶上突出来的雪檐,像圣诞节时迪斯尼的店铺,仿佛走进檐下就可以买到彩球、魔力棒等各式各样圣诞树的装饰。雪檐大约有一两米宽,十几厘米来厚,伸出房檐几十厘米还低悬不落,像极了生日蛋糕上包裹着的厚厚的奶油,让人馋涎欲滴。最有趣的是,有的雪檐竟然还会“空中拐弯”的技巧,一直垂到地上,和雪地长在了一起,于是就把房子严严实实地包起来,成了一个完整的雪屋。
外界少雪,甚至找不到一点雪的迹象,雪乡却可以做到“万里雪飘”,仿佛魔幻大片《纳尼亚传奇》里的那个大衣橱,穿过长袍短褂,后面是一个冰封的世界。究竟是谁创造了这个奇迹?地理学家为我们揭开了雪乡的秘密:
原来,雪乡平均海拔800多米,高于周围地区,形成了一定坡度。黑龙江的最高峰老秃顶子,海拔1686.9米,和附近的羊草山,共同形成了雪乡三面环山的格局,北面袭来的西伯利亚寒流和南来的日本海暖湿气流在此频频交汇。两座大山挡住了来自海洋的暖流,也挡住了山外的污尘,雪乡因此拥有了得天独厚的降雪,最大降雪量曾有过2米的记录。在地理学上,这样的情况叫做“小气候”。
译文:
The Village of Snow--Boasting the Heaviest Snow in China

The village is dressed in a gorgeous coat by the brilliant fireworks, revealing kind of mystery that used to appearing in a dream.
The snow in the village has great mucosity. Once it snows, some sticks to the eaves, gradually accumulating to a mass of cream, with others floating around with wind, turning out to be the mushrooms on the stakes or other animals.
Those are not big plums! Pears are nearly black because of the freezing weather, and being put in cold water is necessary before eating, which makes them a specialty of the northeast China.
A big flake of snow is as soft as a piece of goose feather, spiraling and floating down in the mid-air. If lucky enough, it would be taken to the village of snow, where makes it possible to stay unmelted for 7 months. The village of snow has long ago dressed in splendid silver white attire when most of the northern China experiences temperature dropping with no snow. You won't really realize it until you yourself have the experience in the village that it is the place owning the heaviest snow in China.
Who Is It That Creates the Kingdom of Snow?
In the January of 2007, the snow on the streets of Harbin, which fell not long ago, had been thoroughly melted, and that added doubt to me whether there would be snow in the legendary village of snow.
The car bumped in the deep jungle. We were in the place named Dahailin, a part of Changbai Mountainrange, located in the southward slope of Zhangguangcai Mountain. Zhangguangcai Mountain, which can be clearly seen in the geographical map, is with zonal distribution from northeast to southwest, stretching to Jilin Province. I called in my mind the name of Dahailin, while the birches and the Korean pine flitted by the car. The village of snow is just hidden in the depth of the jungle that is as broad as sea.
The temperature in the mountain was obviously lower than that in the city. The snow that fell several days ago was still unmelted. Though the white melting snow had already made me excited, the driver told us it hardly counted compared with the village of snow, which was quite another world! Sure enough, when the car took another turn, the world of white suddenly extended, as if shouting to us, "Welcome to the kingdom of snow!"
The eaves made of snow that bulged from each house's eave was the first thing catching my eye. They were just like Disney's shops during the Christmas that as if you could buy the decorations for Christmas tree such as pompons and magic wands, as long as you went inside them. The snow eaves were about one to two centimeters in breadth, and more than ten centimeters in depth, stretching out of the eaves for dozens of centimeters without dropping down, which strongly resembled the thick cream wrapping the birthday cake, licking my chops. The most interesting thing was that some of the snow eaves could turn a corner in the mid-air, bending down to the ground and mixing with the snow accumulating on the ground. That muffled houses up and made them a complete snowscape.
It snows little outside the village, and it is even hard to find any trace of snow, while the village of snow is all covered with falling snow, just like the big clothespress in The Chronicles of Narnia, a magical film, in which a frozen world is just hidden behind the clothes. Who on earth creates the miracle? Geographers unveil the truth:
Actually, the village of snow has an average altitude of more than 800 meters, higher than the areas around, forming a certain gradient. Plus Laotudingzi, the highest mountain in Heilongjiang Province, owning the altitude of 1,686.9 meters, together with Yangcao Mountain nearby, surrounds three sides of the village. There meets the Siberian cold snap from north and the warm and wet current of the Japanese Sea from south frequently, while warm currents from the ocean are obstructed by the two mountains, so is the dust outside the mountains. Hence the heaviest snow in the village of snow, and the record of snowfall hit two meters! In terms of geography, the situation is called "microclimate".