I’ve done quite a bit of sewing in my life… I’ve sewn everything from horse blankets to my duppioni silk wedding. I can make a tailored men’s dress shirt or a bed-size quilt. There are still fabrics that challenge me… I’ve come close to crying when I was sewing a faux-patent leather jacket (hint - use sheets of tissue paper on the seams, you’ll prevent sticking). I’ve broken needles sewing stuffed animals with long-pile fake fur (hand-sewing is the way to go - if you can’t, trim the fur from the seams). Velvet is one of those fabrics that look luscious, but (at least in my experience) is a pain in the tuckus to deal with!
There are a few things that can help…
- First of all, pin like you’ve never pinned before - every inch of the seams!
- Don’t cut it out without checking which way the pile runs. Run your hand down a length of it - one direction should feel much smoother than the other. Mark that direction on the wrong side or selvage.
- Walking feet (if you have one for your machine) or Teflon feet can stop some of the shifting and puckering that is a common problem with velvet, especially with rayon blends
- Avoid ironing completed seams. The fabric will permanently crease and you’ll see the seams marked on the right side.
- If you’re very careful with an iron, you can fuse the seams together, using 1/2″ wide seam bonding tape. Just make sure to sew a wide enough seam allowance so they fusible doesn’t show through.
- Or, of course - you could just do what I’m doing and hand-sew the whole thing :-) Time consuming, but so much easier.
译文:
天鹅绒缝纫防缠绕帖士
我一辈子做了很多针线活，几乎什么都做过，从马的毯子到duppioni丝婚礼礼服。我可以做精致的男士衬衫或者士床那样大小的被子。但是仍然有些面料让我头痛。当我在缝制一条人造革外套时，我都快哭出来了。（温馨提示：在缝纫的边上衬上纸巾，这样就不会粘在一块儿了。）当我用长毛人造动物皮革缝制绒毛玩具时，断了不少针。（最好是手工缝制，如果你不行的话，把缝合线修剪整齐。）天鹅绒是所有材质中看起来最有质感的面料，但是，至少以我的经验看来，这可真是超级难对付。
一下的几条建议也许对你有所帮助：
1、将所有的缝合线都用别针盯住，就好像你从来没钉过一样。
2、在没有确认面料毛的走向时，千万不要裁剪。用手抚摸布料，其中从一个方向摸上去的手感要比另一个方向的顺滑。在错误的方向或者织边上标上标记。
3、“步行脚”（如果你的机器上已经有了的话），那就用“特氟纶脚”，可以防止布料的移位和褶皱，这都是用天鹅绒缝制时常见的问题，特别是当遇到人造混合丝。
4、不要熨烫已缝合的边，否则布料会永久褶皱，你就会看到一条被突显出来的缝合线。
5、如果你已经很小心的使用了熨斗，那么，用1/2″宽的缝合线熔合胶带，你可以把两条缝合线熔合在一起。但是要确保缝合线有一定的宽度，这样融合带就不会露出来了。
6、或者，当然，你可以像我这样，一切都用手工完成^_^尽管花时间，但是简单多了。