Small is beautiful
Hobart's compact, navigable dimensions add to its laid-back maritime appeal
Christian Heeb / Laif
Visitors from more populous countries might consider Hobart, Australia — population just over 200,000 — little more than a village. But big isn't everything. The capital of the island state of Tasmania was established in 1803. What was hell for English convicts in the early 19th century is these days a heavenly place to be — a compact, charming city with a beautiful harborfront, colonial architecture, a growing café society, fine restaurants and art galleries. The impressive backdrop of Mount Wellington heralds the fact that the city is also the gateway to Tasmania's stunning wilderness. Here are five things to put on your Hobart itinerary. (Read "Australian Journey: The Secret Life of Rivers.")
Peppermint Bay
This is a maritime city so best get out on the water and take the half-day Peppermint Bay Cruise, tel: (61-3) 6231 5113, which departs from the Hobart Cruise Centre at Sullivan's Cove. Heading out into the estuary of the Derwent River can be hair-raising when the Southern Ocean is choppy, but it's bearable on a large, luxury, high-speed catamaran. Soon you enter the tranquil waters of the d'Entrecasteaux Channel — named by early French explorers, who had friendly contact with local Aborigines before the British arrived and devastated the indigenous culture. While you lap up the historical commentary, you'll spot seals, dolphins and white-breasted sea eagles. Local produce is served bento-box-style onboard, or you can toddle ashore, past lobster fishermen unloading their catch, to dine at Peppermint Bay, adjacent the quaint hamlet of Woodbridge. Local treats include Bruny Island oysters, ocean trout, Tasmanian truffles, organic ice cream and fine Tasmanian wine.
Salamanca Market
Held every Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. at Hobart's historic Salamanca Place, the Salamanca Market, http://www.salamanca.com.au/, is one of the city's most established tourist attractions. Just five minutes' walk from the city center, it's a surprisingly orderly affair set between a line of graceful plane trees and the mellow sandstone façades of historic warehouses. You'll be entertained by all manner of buskers while you browse stalls selling local arts and crafts (hand-worked glass and Tasmanian timber feature strongly). Afterward, wander up the Kelly Steps, built in 1839 to connect Salamanca Place with nearby Battery Point, one of the city's oldest neighborhoods.
Henry Jones Art Hotel
Wandering the hallways at the Henry Jones Art Hotel, tel: (61-3) 6210 7700, you could be forgiven for thinking you had stumbled into an art gallery by mistake. That's the idea, actually. This boutique property, which opened in 2004, aims to promote Tasmanian art, culture and history, and has on staff an art curator and a history-liaison officer to brief guests. There are more than 350 works of art throughout the hotel, all for sale. This place is actually a combination of eight buildings, dating back to 1803, and is named after Henry Jones (1862-1926), who once owned the IXL jam factory on the harborfront. Visit the retro-chic IXL Long Bar and sign up for the Friday-evening art tour if you're not staying in-house.
Fish Frenzy
The small flotilla of trawlers docked in the harbor by the Elizabeth Street Pier's Fish Frenzy restaurant, tel: (61-3) 6231 2134, bodes well for the freshness of the food. "Arguably the best fish and chips in Australia," according to the Sydney Morning Herald, and we agree. It's a bustling eatery where the fishy fare is served in cones of butcher's paper. A real treat is blue eye, or trevalla — a deep-sea fish that is very much a local delicacy.
Antarctica
In winter, the icy blast of wind coming off the Southern Ocean reminds you that southward, the next stop is Antarctica. Indeed, when not exploring, Australia's Antarctic flagship — an impressive research-and-resupply vessel named Aurora Australis — is usually docked here. To familiarize yourself with Australia's (and Hobart's) involvement with the icy continent, visit the riveting "Islands to Ice" exhibit at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery, tel: (61-3) 6211 4177. Don some funky glasses, watch a spectacular 3-D film that lets you wander across the ice, bracing against the katabatic winds while imagining how awful it must have been for the likes of Scott, Amundsen, Shackleton and Australian Antarctic explorer Sir Douglas Mawson. A friendly warning if you suffer from motion sickness: steer clear of the looped video shot from the bow of a ship plowing south through mountainous seas, or you could find yourself making haste for the exit.
See pictures of Australia's hidden islands.
See pictures of Australia.
译文:
5种值得你参观霍巴特的理由
霍巴特是一个地域狭小，美丽的可通航海域，由于其得天独厚的地理位置使其更具魅力。
Christian Heeb / Laif
来自于人口密集国家的人们也许会首选霍巴特，澳大利亚--人口20万--大小像一个村庄。但是大并不代表一切。 塔玛斯尼亚岛首府建立于1803年。它是一个紧凑简洁的，迷人的并拥有一个美丽的 港口，独具殖民地时期建筑风格的城市，咖啡业是社会日益发展的支柱产业，并具有星级餐馆及艺术画廊。 给人留下深刻印象的惠灵顿山也向人们展示了一个事实，那就是城市也是一个通往塔斯马尼亚美丽原野的一条途径 。以下是5件事情需要在霍巴特旅程之中做一详细了解 (阅读 "澳洲之旅: 河流的秘密生活.")
Peppermint 海湾
这是一个乘船旅行的极好的海滨城市并可以做一个半天 Peppermint 海湾游轮旅行，电话：, tel: (61-3) 6231 5113,从霍巴特中心的l沙利文海湾出发。进入得文特河江口，当南部海洋海面波涛汹涌时会使人感到惊险万分。但它是一个巨大的，豪华的，并具备极大负荷量的高速双体船。 不久你就会进入宁静的当特尔卡斯托海峡通道 —一个被早期与当地土族居民有着密切接触并在英国人到达之前毁坏了原住民文化的法国探险家所命名。当你欣然接受历史的评论，你将会辨认出海豹 ， 海豚和白色高与胸齐的海鹰。 在游船上供应当地农产品便当盒饭，或者你也可以上岸散步，从龙虾渔民卸载他们的捕获品旁经过 ， 在毗连古雅的，离奇有趣的伍德布里奇的Peppermint海湾用餐 。当地款待包括 布鲁尼岛牡砺，海鳟鱼 ，塔斯马尼亚块菌，天然纯冰激凌和香醇可口的塔斯马尼亚红酒。
萨拉曼卡市场
每逢星期六从早8：30至下午2：30为营业时间。地处于霍巴特具有历史意义的萨拉曼卡地区，萨拉曼卡市场， http://www.salamanca.com.au/,是城市最负盛名的景点之一 。距离市中心只有5分钟的路程。 它是一个令人吃惊的并井然有序的处于一条优美的绿色植物带及有光滑圆润砂岩面具有历史意义的仓库式建筑物之间 。当你浏览出售当地工艺品（手工制成的玻璃制品及塔斯马尼亚坚固的木制品）商店时你会被款待被各种艺人款待 。随后，漫步 Kelly Steps，建立于1839年用来连接萨拉曼地区同附近的Battery Point ，一个城市最古老的街区。
亨利琼斯艺术宾馆
漫步在亨利琼斯艺术宾馆的门厅，电话 : (61-3) 6210 7700，你能够得以理解如果认为自己误入了一个艺术画廊。那就是其目的，事实上 ，这是一个精品店，开业于2004年， 目的在于促进塔斯马尼亚艺术，文化及历史以及工作人员的艺术策展及历史联络官展示于世人 。 有大约350件艺术作品遍及整个酒店，该艺术品全部出售。这个建筑实际上是8座楼宇的组合，追溯回1803年 ， 并且以曾经在港口拥有ＩＸＬ果酱工厂的亨利琼斯(1862-1926)命名。参观 retro-chic IXL的长廊酒吧并签署一个星期五晚上的艺术之旅计划如果你真的不想呆在户内。
狂怒的鱼
拖网的小型渔船停泊在港口靠近伊丽莎白街码头鱼狂怒餐馆，电话 ： (61-3) 6231 2134，它意味着鱼类食品的新鲜程度。 "可称得上是澳大利亚最好的与和薯条 ，" 据悉尼先驱晨报。我们赞同这一观点。这是一个繁忙的提供鱼类食品及肉店票据的餐馆 。一个真正的款待是蓝眼，或是 trevalla — 一种当地极其美味的深水鱼。
南极洲
在冬季，来自于南部海洋寒冷的阵风提醒你往南，下一站是南极洲，的确，当没有探索发现 ，澳大利亚的南极旗舰--一艘给人印象极深的调查研究－及－供应船取名为南极光－通常停驻在这里—你一定不难发现自己与澳大利亚的 (及霍巴斯的)包括冰冷的大陆极其熟悉 ，参观 riveting "冰冻的岛屿 " 观看在塔斯马尼亚博物馆及艺术画廊的展览，电话: (61-3) 6211 4177.带上新式眼镜，观看一场惊心动魄的 3-D 电影并做一个冰上漫步，迎着迎面风想象像斯科特，阿孟森，沙克尔顿及澳大利亚南极探险家Ｄｏｕｇｌａｓ Ｍａｗｓｏｎ先生的遭遇一定是多么惊险。还有一个友好的提示－那就是如果你遭受晕动病；走出户外远离船头商店的大量影碟，多多瞭望南部多山的海域，否则你会发现自己在急速摇晃。
浏览图片澳大利亚的隐藏岛屿 .
浏览澳大利亚图片 .